14kgoldnyc replied to your quote: The 29-course El Bulli dinners cost $365 for food…
LIGHTWEIGHTS. Masa in NYC is twice as expensive! Fine dining as competition is the only way they can justify prices like that—and stand out, because even phenomenal food is still… food.
This competition trend hasn’t yet arrived to Europe as far as I know (perhaps in London, which is more influenced by American culture than the rest of the continent?). Here, even the top restaurants use the traditional reservation system. Sure, some places have months long waiting lists, but still, the system is somewhat accessible (I suppose those with a lot of influence/ fame can get around it as well, just like everywhere else).
Back in the day, when the original Bulli was still open (not this US copycat, but the original one in Spain), I tried to get reservations, especially because at the time I was traveling to Barcelona quite regularly for work. I was always, always late which was somewhat expected as the place only opened six months per year. I suppose I could have tried to exert some nepotist influence through some of my customers (some of whom were “influential”), but if anything, my commitment to fine dining is only surpassed by my laziness.
Also, the original Bulli was nowhere near as expensive as this US version. I won’t say it was “cheap”, but it was considerably better priced than restaurants of similar quality in Northern Europe (Netherlands, Germany, etc.).
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